A Local’s Guide to the Best Non-Touristy Spots in Paris

They say that Paris is always a good idea, but I’m not entirely convinced.

At least, not if we’re talking about a certain version of Paris – the one plastered across Hollywood films and glossy adverts. You know the version: the Eiffel Tower proposals, the endless queues curling around the Louvre and crowded tea rooms, such as Angelique’s.

But there is (thankfully) another sort of Paris – a quieter, more authentic Paris.

A Paris of tucked-away courtyards, neighbourhood cafes, forgotten historical buildings, hidden gardens and creative streets. This is the non-touristy Paris – the locals’ Paris.

And the Paris that is always – always – a brilliant idea.

What follows is exactly this: a local-approved guide to non-touristy things to do in Paris, co-written with a friend who spent years living in the city. Having just returned from our own weekend in Paris (where we also got engaged – the only cliche thing about the trip, I promise), I can vouch for every recommendation on this list.

So if you’re looking for authentic experiences, quiet corners and a weekend itinerary for non-touristy Paris, you’re in the right place.

Here’s our tried-and-tested non-touristy Paris itinerary – written with the help of locals, for travellers who want more than the usual Parisian checklist.

A Non-Touristy Weekend in Paris: A Local-Approved Itinerary

A Guide to Non-Touristy Paris: Day 1

Locations: Montmartre

Firstly, where to stay for an authentic feeling of Paris?

Now, I’ll admit that Montmartre is perhaps one of Paris’ most famous neighbourhoods. Montmartre village – a place of artists, dreamers and creatives – is where the ephemeral Sacre Couer sits, where Emily in Paris was filmed and where you’ll find artists painting caricatures in the village square.

Tourists love Montmartre.

However, outside of the village, and within wider Montmartre, there are plenty of quiet streets, tiny restaurants filled only with locals and great foodie spots.

We stayed in this incredible Airbnb, overlooking Montmartre Cemetery – just off Rue Cavallotti.

It was not only an amazing space – light, airy and cosy – but it was so quiet. We didn’t hear anything, or anyone, while we were there (aside, of course, from the sound of the resident cawing crows in the cemetery). It was the most peaceful haven to stay and it felt far removed from Montmartre’s crowds.

We could not recommend it enough as the best place to stay in Montmartre.

Explore Rue des Abbesses

We arrived in Paris on a Thursday evening and after checking in at our Airbnb, we headed straight out to find a (non-touristy, of course) place to grab some essentials.

Thankfully, a five minute walk from where we were staying was the amazing Rue Des Abbesses – a street that felt like its own little village. It’s easily one of the most authentic stretches in Montmartre – lively, but not overwhelming, and full of independent shops and award-winning boulangeries.

As we explored the street, we picked up cheese from a tiny fromagerie, grabbed a bottle of wine from a local caviste and watched as locals ran their end-of-week errands.

Here are some of the best places to eat and drink on Rue des Abbesses.

Fromageries (Cheese Shops)

Fromagerie Rue des Martyrs – Abbesses branch
A tiny, traditional cheese shop with wheels stacked to the ceiling. The staff here were very friendly and happily talked us through what was seasonal (try any of their bries – they’re all amazing).

La Butte Fromagere
This shop is known for its creamy goat cheeses (absolutely delicious) and brilliant Comte – a type of French hard cheese.

Cavistes (Wine Shops)

La Cave des Abbesses

We headed into this tiny shop after seeing locals repeatedly ducking through its door. It’s a proper neighbourhood wine shop with great natural wine picks. It’s by no means tourist-facing and the owner gave us very thoughtful recommendations (we were in there for over 45 minutes).

Bakeries & Sweet Stops

A locals’ favourite – we visited because we saw an enormous queue snaking out of its door and so knew it must be good. I later found out it has twice one the prize for Paris’ baguette – which is saying something.

Everything in here is delicious, so don’t worry too much about your choice.

Au Levain d’Antan

This was another great place, a little nearer to our Airbnb. We got our morning croissants here and took them back to bed, with an Americano each.

Actual heaven.

Explore Montmartre Cemetery at Dusk

A surprisingly non-touristy thing to do in Paris is to visit Montmartre’s grand cemetery – especially at dusk.

Montmartre Cemetery (Cimetière de Montmartre) opened in 1825 – just beneath the hill where the village is located.

As Montmartre was once the artistic heart of Paris, many of its residents – dancers, painters, composers and Bohemians – were eventually laid to rest here. As you walk through, you’ll find beautifully sculpted tombs of figures like Degas and Dalida (an artist and a dancer), and come across some impressive architecture.

We spent ages taking in all of the elaborate stone chapels, crumbling angels and ivy-draped mausoleums – alongside the many cemetery cats that skulk from tomb to tomb.

Funnily enough, this amazing cemetery is largely free of crowds, perhaps because most tourists visit Père Lachaise Cemetery – Paris’ largest graveyard (where, curiously, most gather at Jim Morrison’s grave).

Practical Tips for Visiting Montmarte Cemetery

Check closing times: the cemetery typically closes before full darkness and hours do change seasonally. It’s best to aim for late afternoon so you catch the golden light without feeling rushed towards the exit.

Use the main entrance on Avenue Rachel: It’s the easiest access point and the most atmospheric way to arrive (although it did take us ages to actually find this entrance).

Dinner at Ofir

We were incredibly lucky that just across the road from our Airbnb were several amazing restaurants (all of which were largely tourist free).

One of these spots, loved by locals, was Ofir – a small, but perfectly formed, Portuguese restaurant. The setting was just so cosy – featuring an open fire and row upon row of candles – and the food was even better.

We decided to opt for the chef’s menu and let him decide our dishes – and got four exceptional plates (clams, seabream, duck risotto and sardine salad) along with a shared pudding.

Definitely be sure to book ahead, as it does get very busy (especially as it’s so intimate and small).

A Guide to Non-Touristy Paris: Day 2

Locations: Rue Des Martyrs (9th-18th Arrodisment and Le Marais (3rd & 4th Arrodisment) 

Our un-touristy guide to Paris continues, this time with a day grazing your way along one of the best foodie streets in Paris, before heading to the city’s former marshland.

These Paris hidden gems were some of our favourite spots during our weekend break, so be sure to swing by.

Head to Rue Des Martyrs

If you only have time for one proper foodie stroll in Paris, make it Rue des Martyrs.

Stretching from the lower edge of Montmartre down toward the 9th Arrondissement, this street is the heart of everyday Parisian food culture. There are no chains, no tourist traps, no gimmicks – just a (seemingly) endless lineup of independent bakeries, fromageries, chocolatiers, patisseries, wine shops and speciality stores.

In fact, this is the one place my friend said to visit, when helping me with this local’s guide to Paris. It’s the place to come to taste real Paris – and is precisely how we started our Friday morning in Paris.

Here are some of our top recommendations (top tip: don’t start at the very top of the road – instead aim for where you’ll find KB Coffee Roasters and start heading downwards from there).

Sébastien Gaudard Pâtisserie

This place is, quite frankly, a temple of French baking. Shiny, sparkling and filled with glossy fruit tarts, perfectly piped eclairs and traditional pastries, we came here several times not only to grab a treat, but to also get some presents (they do great chocolates and even an incredible smelling candle – my mum’s Christmas present sorted).

Fromagerie Beillevaire

This is a must-stop for cheese lovers. Here you’ll find beautifully presented cheeses, helpful staff and local prices. Just a word of warning, however, their salted butter is addictive – and we were gutted to find that we could no longer travel home to the UK with dairy goods. 

I guess our cholesterol levels will thank us later.

La Cave Gourmande

This is a great little bistro, serving up simple but tasty food.

Here you’ll find all the traditional Parisian fare – including snails, plates of cheese and onion soup. We opted for the latter and it was delicious – served alongside endless rounds of bread and butter.

A great little spot for lunch.

Popelini

Like a cream puff? (Or should I say – choux a la creme)?

Then this place is your heaven.

We came to Popelini not once, but three times – to stock up on their tiny, yet elegant filled pastries. Our favourites were vanilla, chocolate and pistachio (although I imagine all are delicious).

Le Pain Retrouvé

We loved this modern, hipster style boulangerie – especially their giant almond croissants. To find it, just look for the queue outside (don’t worry, it moves quickly). Definitely also try their bread – it’s crispy, yet soft – and we bought two sticks while in Paris.

Les Poissonniers de Montmartre

Although we didn’t buy anything here, we loved the old-school and authentic feel of this place. Outside (and inside) you’ll find an incredible display of oysters, prawns and seasonal catch – and plenty of locals scoping up the fish of the day.

Maison Thielen

A great place to find some of Paris’ best charcuterie meats – we came here to get some meats for the ‘picky dinner’ we had planned.

Explore Paris’ Covered Passages

Once we got to the bottom of Rue des Martyrs, we were excited to find that we were right at the start of one of Paris’ many covered passages.

Indeed, beyond its wide boulevards, Paris hides a network of covered passages – elegant, glass-roofed arcades that date back to the 19th century. These passages were the original shopping malls, offering Parisians a protected, stylish place to shop (without their hair getting ruined, or rained on).

Today, they’re a peaceful retreat from the crowds, filled with boutique shops, artisan restaurants, vintage bookstores and teeny tiny galleries.

We loved Passage des Panoramas, with its historic cafes and stamp shops, and Galerie Vivienne – a neoclassical arcade featuring marble floors.

The passages are perfect for non-touristy exploration and are often overlooked by first-time visitors.

Head over to Le Marais – A Slice of Authentic Paris

Looking for authentic, non-touristy places to visit in Paris? Definitely head over to Le Marais.

If Montmartre is the village-like, bohemian side of Paris, then Le Marais is its elegant, slightly edgy twin.

Le Marais was once the city’s marshes (its name literally means ‘the marsh’) – a swampy area on the right bank of the Seine. In the 12th century, it was drained and gradually settled, but it wasn’t until the 16th and 17th centuries that it transformed into one of Paris’ most fashionable districts.

During this period, wealthy aristocrats built their (gorgeous) private mansions here, tucked behind quiet courtyards. Some of these buildings still stand today, particularly around Place des Vosges, which was commissioned by Henry IV in 1605. It remains one of the most elegant squares in Paris.

In the 19th century, the aristocrats moved out and Le Marais became a more working-class neighbourhood. It was also home to Paris’ Jewish community, whose presence is still visible in the vibrant Rue des Rosiers – full of bakeries, kosher delis and small shops.

By the mid-20th century, parts of Le Marais had fallen into disrepair, but a wave of preservation efforts in the 1960s and 70s restored many of its historic buildings, turning the district into the lively, eclectic neighbourhood that it remains today.

We absolutely loved this non-touristy area and think it’s one of Paris’ real hidden gems (quite literally, as so many of the buildings are hidden behind facades and gardens). We also came here to buy my engagement ring, so it felt extra special.

Some of the best places to visit and things to do in Le Marais include:

Place des Vosge

If Paris had a ‘most photogenic square’, Place des Vosges is definitely a contender. It has perfectly symmetrical arcades, red-brick mansions and a peaceful central lawn – perfect for a wander on an early weekday morning. We also really enjoyed visiting the house where Victor Hugo once lived.

Grab a coffee and pastry at Carette nearby or, slightly further afield, La Patate Douce Radio – a very cool and minimalist coffee shop that we loved.

Wander Rue des Rosiers

This is a great, lively street in the Jewish quarter and is famous for two things: falafel and irresistible bakeries. Grab a warm pita overflowing with fried chickpeas or pick up a loaf of challah for later. There are tons of very cool vintage stores on this street, too.

It’s definitely one of Paris’ hidden gems and one of the best places to see in Le Marais.

Village Saint-Paul

A brilliantly non-touristy part of Paris is Village Saint-Paul. This is a quieter pocket of Le Marais and is an interconnected maze of courtyards, antique shops, galleries and artisan studios.

Marche des Enfants Rouges

 We visited Paris’s oldest covered market for lunch and found piles of Moroccan couscous, Japanese bento and classic French cheese boards. It’s a great spot to wander around and not as busy as many of the city’s other markets.

Archives Nationales & Gardens

A gorgeous and tourist-free part of Paris is its National Archives. Hidden behind ornate gates, the gardens of the National Archives feel very secluded and peaceful.

Dinner at Anahi

Before home time – head to dinner somewhere lovely. On the edge of Le Marais, Anahi is a very popular Argentinian restaurant (with some of Paris’ most well-heeled residents stopping by).

Formerly a butchers, this is a cosy and friendly restaurant, despite the fact it’s also pretty well-known to locals. Definitely try their empanadas with cheese and onion – they’re to die for.

A Guide to Non-Touristy Paris: Day 3

Locations: A Cute Bookstore and Belleville (20th Arrondissement)

Day 3 of our non-touristy guide to Paris and it’s time to visit the city’s most decorated neighbourhood: Belleville and its walls of street art.

However, before you head that way – take a detour to the cutest bookstore in Paris. This is what we did on what was a Saturday, during our own visit to the city.

The Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore

I absolutely love exploring bookshops when I visit new cities – and the Red Wheelbarrow bookstore came highly recommended by a Parisian local.

Although opposite one of the more touristy parts of Paris – the nonetheless beautiful Jardin Du Luxumbourg – this bookshop (and its version for children’s books) were pretty much empty.

The Red Wheelbarrow Bookstore is one of the most loved independent bookstores in Paris, especially for readers searching for a bookstore near the Luxembourg Gardens.

Originally opened by bookseller Penelope Fletcher in the early 2000s and later reborn on rue de Medicis, the shop has become a go-to destination for anyone exploring literary Paris.

We loved how the shop was curated and the children’s shop was just so sweet – featuring a great selection of English and French books – alongside a comfy leather sofa and resident kids’ toys to keep the little ones happy. This book shop is a real Paris hidden gem.

Head to Belleville

From the bookstore, you can take the RATP Bus Line 71, or Bus 20, over towards another non-touristy sight in Paris: the dynamic neighbourhood of Belleville.

I’d go as far as to say that Belleville is probably Paris’ coolest untouristy district.

Far from the polished boulevards and souvenir shops of central Paris, this neighbourhood mixes artists, long-time locals and students. You won’t find many tourist queues here – just street art, tiny cafes, multicultural markets and quiet residential lanes.

Having visited, I wouldn’t say that Belleville is curated for visitors – but that’s exactly why it’s one of the coolest, most genuine corners of Paris to explore. We absolutely loved this hidden gem of a Parisian neighbourhood and are really glad we took the journey out there.

In terms of the best things to do and see in Belleville, Paris – below is a quick list.

Explore Belleville’s Street Art Scene

If you love street art, Belleville is a dream. The narrow lanes around Rue Denoyez are essentially an open-air gallery, with murals, stencils and colourful facades. Unlike the curated art tours in more commercial areas, the graffiti here is very much grassroots – and we actually much preferred it to the more strait-laced art that Paris is famous for (I’m looking at you, the Louvre).

Climb to Parc de Belleville

For the best views of Paris – head to Parc de Belleville.

Walk up through the area’s residential streets to reach the terraces, where you’ll find sweeping views over the city (and it’s way less touristy than Montmartre). We visited on a November evening, when the sun set around 5pm – and the sky was a pastel pink.

It was perfect.

Wander the Belleville Market

Held along Boulevard de Belleville, this market is filled with locals – and includes fresh herbs, spices, Middle Eastern pastries and food that’s far cheaper than in central Paris. It’s one of the best places to get a real taste of the neighborhood’s multicultural roots.

Enjoy Belleville’s Cafe and Bar Culture

Forget the postcard-perfect bistros of central Paris – Belleville’s cafes and bars are casual and diverse (refreshingly so). You’ll find everything from Chinese family restaurants to natural-wine bars, Algerian bakeries and late-night spots where musicians gather.

Our favourite cafe in Belleville – and one recommended by a local – was Candle Kids. This place was so cosy and obviously, very hipster. We also had an amazing lunch at Paloma’s – definitely one of the best places to eat in Belleville.

A Guide to Non-Touristy Paris: Day 4

Where: 20th Arrondissement, 12th Arrondissement and 19th Arrondissement.

Day 4 and the final day (for us at least) in Paris. We decided to try and squeeze a few last non-touristy sights in, including the brilliant areas below.

Visit La Campagne a Paris

This is a tiny hilltop neighbourhood that feels like a hidden village – and one of Paris’ hidden gems. A little like Montmartre, this area is filled with ivy-covered homes and cobblestone lanes – and is found in the 20th Arrondissement. Its name means ‘the countryside in Paris’, which should give you a good idea of its vibe.

It’s definitely one of the best secret places in Paris. In fact, my friend (a Paris local) told me that tourists actually rarely make it over to this neighbourhood – something we can definitely attest to.

It was nearly empty when we visited.

For the prettiest spot, head to the junction of Rue Irenee Blanc and Rue Jules Siegfried. On the way there (or on your way back), be sure to stop by for a coffee at The Dancing Goat cafe – their dippy eggs are next level.

Marche d’Aligre (Aligre Market)

For another fantastic and non-touristy food market in Paris, head to Marche d’Aligre – one of the most vibrant local food markets in Paris. We didn’t get to spend a huge amount of time here, but what we saw was noisy, colourful and packed with fresh produce, cheese stalls and tiny bistros.

On our way out, we did stumble across the brilliant Moisan (Organic Bakery) – and got an incredible baguette from here.

The market is located in the 12th Arrondissement of Paris, near the Place d’Aligre and close to Bastille.

Canal de l’Ourcq Walk

Make your way northeast and head towards Canal de l’Ourcq -a relaxed, creative stretch of the city where you’ll find plenty of locals out on their evening run. Unlike the tourist favourite, Canal Saint-Martin, this area is filled with street art and warehouse cafes – and reminded me a little of Shoreditch.

We popped to Le Pavillon Des Canaux for a coffee and an obligatory pastry – and loved it. It’s housed inside a former lock-keeper’s home, and you can sit in a number of eclectic rooms, including a vintage kitchen, a bedroom or within a vintage bathtub.

It was a great place to end our weekend break in Paris.

Itinerary for a Non-Touristy Weekend in Paris: Final Thoughts

Paris is so much more than the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre and the classic tourist checklist.

From my own experience, wandering through neighbourhoods like Belleville, Le Marais, La Campagne a Paris, and the city’s beautiful covered passages, reveals a (quite frankly) nicer version of the city.

 This ‘hidden Paris’ feels authentic, lived-in and unexpected.

I’ll be honest: during my first few trips, I didn’t love Paris. Looking back, it’s obvious why. I spent most of my time queueing for overhyped restaurants, battling crowds at the Eiffel Tower, and shuffling past the Mona Lisa with hundreds of others.

It was exhausting and pretty miserable.

But on my most recent visits, I’ve made a conscious decision to skip the big-ticket attractions and instead explore Paris’ best local neighbourhoods, park myself in small cafes, wander without an agenda and seek out Paris’ hidden gems.

The difference has been huge.

This version of Paris – slower, friendlier and more creative – is one I much prefer. Of course, there’s still magic in watching the Eiffel Tower sparkle at night or admiring pastel-coloured macarons in a famous patisserie. Those moments are iconic for a reason.

But they’re only a tiny part of what Paris truly is.

The Paris that keeps me coming back is the local’s Paris: welcoming, surprising and full of character. It’s a side of the city that feels far more accessible – and far more rewarding – than anything you’ll find on a typical tourist trail.

This off-the-beaten-path Paris is where locals hang out, artisan shops thrive and community art projects come together. Whether you’re lingering over coffee in a little cafe, browsing independent bookshops, or wandering a serene hilltop park, you’re not just visiting Paris – you’re living (a bit) of Parisianness.

And it’s magnifique.